Kanpai

Kagoshima

Black Koji Sweet Potato Shochu: Satoh Kuro

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In the US, Satoh Kuro is simply known as "Satoh" as none of the distillery's other product lines reach our shores. In Japan, their national premium labels are Satoh Kuro (black koji sweet potato, Satoh Shiro (white koji sweet potato), and Satoh Mugi (barley). All are delicious, but only Kuro comes Stateside.

Seeking out a Legend: The Maewari Magician

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During my stay in Kagoshima in October 2013, Tekkan Wakamatsu, the toji at Yamato Zakura Shuzo, where I did my internship, told me about a legendary izakaya in downtown Kagoshima City where the owners was an "ancient magician" (Tekkan-san may have said "a yoda", as he's fond of Star Wars references) in the art of "maewari" shochu.

Day 19: Saruya – Monkeys in the Woods

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To say that Saruya ("monkey house") is in Satsuma-Sendai is kind of like saying that Staten Island is in New York City. Technically it is, but only technically. Driving down a dark country road surrounded by thick old forest we come upon a small parking lot in front of a windowless building decorated with shochu bottles and a neon sign. This was our destination. There's not another building in sight.

Day 18: Wandering Kagoshima CIty

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On my previous visit to Kagoshima in the summer of 2012, I had not done any sightseeing, instead just nonstop distillery tours during the day and izakaya visits at night. I managed to go three days in Kagoshima without even seeing Sakurajima, the volcano that looms over the city from across the bay. I'd already remedied that on previous days, but decided to stroll aimlessly around the city to see what it was like.

Day 17: Eruptions, Robots, and, of course, Shochu

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With no set itinerary for the weekend, I was able to sleep in a little before Yagi-kun picked me up for the drive to the Sakurajima ferry terminal. On our drive Sakurajima was silent until it wasn't. An enormous eruption sent ash billowing skyward in a startling display of the volcano's volatility. Startling apparently only to me as Yagi-kun and his wife didn't seem at all surprised or impressed. They stopped the car for a photo nonetheless.

Day 16: Yachiyoden + NHK Television

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I awoke in the traditional tatami room for an early breakfast with the Shacho-san prepared in traditional fashion by his traditional wife in his traditional home. It was pretty special. We made the short drive to his distillery where the staff was waiting to greet us. The drive up the valley to the sakagura was beautiful. The distillery itself had reopened 10 years earlier after a complete remodeling.