Awamori

Awamori is technically a different spirit than shochu, though even many Japanese tend to combine them into a single category. Awamori is distilled exclusively in Okinawa from long grain Indica (Thai) rice and Okinawan black koji. These spirits are among the most flavorful and sought after among shochu aficionados due to their complex flavors, relative rarity, and a long history of aged perfection.

To the uninitiated awamori can be off-putting as they have a very strong scent. Someone less kind might even call it an odor, due to the fatty acids that remain in the spirit and are trapped by bottling. This wasn’t a problem traditionally, because awamori was sold in clay pots, which breathed, releasing the fatty acid and mellowing the spirit. The smell belies the nature of the spirit itself as the underlying tastes can be earthy, floral, sweet, herbal, or some combination of these.

Aged (kusu) awamori may be aged in clay pots for 20 years or more prior to bottling. These aged spirits command a very high price tag with several hundred dollars per bottle not unheard of. There are bars in Tokyo that will sell a single glass of kusu awamori for $70 or more.

Therefore, our awamori recommendations require a bit more explanation. We are rating these on a much steeper scale than other shochu varieties because we have tried some very good kusu awamori in Okinawa, which are sadly not available in the U.S. Please consider the awamori recommendations relative to one another rather than against other shochu styles.

Also keep in mind that what we like may not be what you like, so you should explore all of these awamori to your heart’s content … if you can find them.

Kanpai!

EXCEPTIONAL:

Ryukyu Ohcho Full of complex flavors, reminiscent of the Chinese spirit, Kaohliang.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED:

Zuisen Hakuryu This is a tasty, mellow awamori with an unexpected finish.

RECOMMENDED

Kumejima’s Kumsen Our first awamori experience and still one of our favorites.

Mizuho A subtle, low proof awamori. An excellent introduction to the spirit.

WORTH DRINKING

Fisherman Collection A rich, sweet awamori with a lot of character despite the silly bottling. Taiwan import market.

Shimauta This is an excellent choice for an introduction to the style.

Awamori photo used courtesy of Okinawa Convention & Visitors Bureau.

iichiko silhouette

This iichiko silhouette is probably the most common Japanese shochu currently available in the United States. In NYC I’ve seen it in random mom & pop liquor stores as the only shochu among a shelf of sake options. It’s most commonly available in 750ml bottles, though I’ve seen other sizes in other countries. This is a great starter shochu, which is why I’ve chosen it for my first tasting note. It was my introduction to shochu back in 2008. I’d had Korean soju before, but Japanese shochu is a strikingly different (and better) experience.

Tasting Notes: The SG Shochu IMO

The SG Shochu IMO is a clear invitation to create the classic imo cocktail. If you get it right, it will resonate and cascade around the world until you can't not have sweet potato shochu on your menu if you consider yourself a proper drinking establishment.

Tasting Notes: Lento Shochu

Lento is the top selling kokuto shochu in Japan, and it is available internationally as well. Try it on the rocks or with sparkling water for a refreshing taste of the Amami Islands. Kanpai!

Tasting Notes: The SG Shochu MUGI

The SG Shochu MUGI wraps several barley shochu identities into one. It's lightly barrel-aged and carries the associated sweet notes. But there's also a graininess that is revealed when the temperature of the drink drops. It's a versatile barley shochu that can be enjoyed a variety of ways.