Kyushu 2013

Seeking out a Legend: The Maewari Magician

January 14, 2014 by Stephen Leave a Comment

During my stay in Kagoshima in October 2013, Tekkan Wakamatsu, the toji at Yamato Zakura Shuzo, where I did my internship, told me about a legendary izakaya in downtown Kagoshima City where the owners was an "ancient magician" (Tekkan-san may have said "a yoda", as he's fond of Star Wars references) in the art of "maewari" shochu.

Day 23: Shochu Reflections on my Kyushu Tour

November 19, 2013 by Stephen 1 Comment

My 21 full days and 2 partial days in Japan represent the longest I've been outside of NYC since I moved there over 11 years ago and the longest I've been outside of the US in my lifetime. For the first time in my life I'd been able to get my mind far enough outside the US to gain some perspective. And for the first time in over a decade I'd been able to detach myself from the frenetic all-consuming chase that is life in NYC.

Day 22: Ready for my Close-up (and Farewell Meals)

November 15, 2013 by Stephen 1 Comment

A typhoon that had been threatening Kyushu weakened and changed course so we were left with some clouds and light rain for my last day in Ichiki. A local TV station, MBC-Kagoshima, which had profiled my visit to Komasa Shuzo last summer, found me again for a piece on my internship at Yamato Zakura.

Day 21: Last Full Day of Work

November 13, 2013 by Stephen 1 Comment

The afternoon's work was broken up by a visit to the Tengu Sakura Shuzo, a 5 minute walk from Yamato Zakura. This is another tezukuri (handmade) distillery in Ichiki, but it's a much larger operation, making two to three times more shochu each day and having many more brands. The telltale Tengu (a god-like creature with a long nose) bottle appears throughout Japan in any respectable shochu bar.

Day 20: The Media Arrives

November 12, 2013 by Stephen 3 Comments

Today is another slower day at the distillery since Sunday's closure means no imo washing today. I get to sleep in until a decadent 7am before starting the day's work. Over breakfast Tekkan-san informs me that the local newspaper and government offices will be visiting to conduct an interview with me - they'd caught wind of my internship through his facebook page.

Day 19: Saruya – Monkeys in the Woods

November 11, 2013 by Stephen 2 Comments

To say that Saruya ("monkey house") is in Satsuma-Sendai is kind of like saying that Staten Island is in New York City. Technically it is, but only technically. Driving down a dark country road surrounded by thick old forest we come upon a small parking lot in front of a windowless building decorated with shochu bottles and a neon sign. This was our destination. There's not another building in sight.